(Jrt)
Kimono
The kimono (Japanese:着物, kiru and mono, literally "thing that we focused on themselves") is the traditional Japanese clothing. It is often confused, mistakenly, with the clothing drive martial arts (keikogi, judogi, karategi). Prior to the introduction of Western clothing in Japan, the word kimono meant all types of clothing; nowadays it refers to the traditional Japanese dress, T form, essentially for special occasions.
The kimono descends from the kosode, clothing previously used as underwear. It is composed of rectangles of fabric folded and sewn, but never cross it is straight, falling to the feet or ankles, depending on the formality of the whole and the person wearing it. Its uniqueness lies in its very long sleeves, up kimonos ground for young women (furisode). The kimono is still left to right side: on the one hand it would conceal a weapon (tanto), on the other hand, the dead are dressed by crossing in the opposite direction. It is held in place by a wide belt tied in the back, called obi.
A kimono nine is particularly expensive, the price of up to several thousand euros, and the wear is particularly complicated. Today, the kimono is best known through the days of twenty years (seijin shiki,成人式), where young Japanese women wear furisode for the traditional photo. Among the most expensive, furisode brought to the feast is often rented for the occasion. A more common use of the kimono is reserved for members of the "very big bourgeoisie," who can afford the kimonos corresponding to different phases of life (youth, age wall, and so on.), And sometimes with the seasons. However, recent years have witnessed an enthusiasm for kimonos used its simplified version or the yukata.
Kimono women
The choice of a kimono is very important; clothing with all that symbolism and how to wear it with social messages that can be very specific. First, a woman chooses kimono following his marital status, age and the formality of the event. In descending order of formality:
* Kurotomesode (黒留袖;くろとめそで): black kimono with only grounds below the waist. The kurotomesode is the most formal kimono for married women. It is given to the bride of married mothers. A kurotomesode five kamon (emblazoned family): one on the back of each round, in the middle of the back, and one on the front of each shoulder.
* Furisode (振袖;ふりそで): furisode translates literally as buoyant hoses - on average, the sleeves of a furisode measure between 100 and 110 centimetres long. The furisode kimono is the most formal for unmarried women (unmarried). The grounds cover the top and bottom of the garment, and this kimono which is carried on seijin shiki, as well as marriages, by the young women of the family married.
* Irotomesode (色留袖;いろとめそで): kurotomesode resembles, but in a color (not black). As kurotomesode, the reasons are just below the waist. A irotomesode is slightly less formal kurotomesode that it is brought to the marriage by married women of the family married. A irotomesode can have three or five kamon.
* Houmongi (访问着;ほうもんぎ) translates literally "clothing access." Characterized by continuing memorandum on the shoulders and sleeves, as well as below the waist, a houmongi is a bit more formal than the tsukesage his cousin. The houmongi can be worn by married women and unmarried, it is often the best friends of the bride who bear marriages. A houmongi can also be used for formal outings, such galas.
* Tsukesage (付け下げ;つけさげ): A memorandum tsukesage a more modest and are less continuous than houmongi. It can be worn by married women and unmarried.
* Iromuji (色无地;いろむじ): kimono of a single color, which can be worn by married women and unmarried. It is focused on chanoyu, tea ceremony. Silk may be a jacquard (rinzu), but has no incentive coloured.
* Komon (小纹;こもん): small ground. It is a kimono with a repetitive pattern. This kimono is fairly informal, and can be worn around town, or made more formal with a beautiful obi to eat in a restaurant. Married women and single individuals may bring.
* Edo komon (江戸小纹;えどこもん): a type of komon characterized by tiny dots that make up the grounds. The technique of dyeing Edo komon has its origins in the samurai of the Edo period. A Edo komon is also a formal iromuji; when it involves kamon (one kamon is most common, but there are three), it may be extended to the same events that tsukesage or houmongi.
* Yukata (ゆかた): informal clothing, without lining, usually made of cotton, but also flax or hemp. The yukata are worn in the summer, festivals, women, men and children. They are also charged with onsen (hot baths), where they are often provided by the institution.
Kimono men
So it takes a dozen accessories to dress in a kimono for women, the male ensembles are more skinned, with a maximum of five accessories (not counting tabi socks and zori sandals).
Today, the main differences between the male and female kimonos are the grounds and color. A kimono man is dark and, in most cases, a single color: black, indigo blue, dark green, sometimes brown. The reasons, if any, are subtle, and are instead on informal kimonos. These can be colored deepest also: purple, green and blue clearer. Sumo wrestlers sometimes very vivid colors, such fuchsia pink. In its form, the kimono man differs by the attaches sleeves, sleeveless men are almost entirely linked to the rest of kimono and closed, while those of women are largely open and very detached.
On the more formal kimono for a man is black silk, with five kamon (one in the back, one on the back of each leg and one on each side of the chest). Then in order, the number of Kamon is a kimono a little less formal: three kamon (on the back and chest), a kamon (on the back).
One man can make almost any more formal by wearing a hakama or haori (short jacket).
Accessories and clothing associated
* Zōri (草履): Sandals covered with cloth, leather, or woven straw. The zori may be sophisticated or simple. They are worn by men, women and children.
* Geta (下駄): Sandals wooden staves in the summer, we see mostly with the yukata. The geisha have a slightly different style and more formal.
* Tabi (足袋): Socks are ascending to the ankles, with the big toe separated from the others. They are worn with the traditional sandals.
* Waraji (草鞋): woven straw sandals. Borne by the monks.
* Hakama (袴): Clothing covering the lower body, very large, traditionally worn by men, women reserving certain ceremonies (or, formerly, travel on horseback). The hakama can take two forms: as trousers (with a separation between the legs) or a skirt. It is worn over a kimono. Traditionally, the samurai (men and women) wore hakamas type trousers, while those type skirt were rather worn by monks and elderly men. Nowadays, the hakama is used in some martial arts. A hakama has several folds, a koshiita - reinforced part in the middle back, and himo - strips. The hakama have different levels of formality, according to their color and pattern. The male ensembles most often the formal hakama, while this is not the case for female ensembles.
* Haori (羽织): jacket falls to the hips or knees, and that adds a little formality, but is not carried by the women in their most formal ensembles. In the beginning was the haori worn only by men, to the Meiji period, when it was adopted by women. The women's haori are longer than those of men.
* Haori-himo: woven rope which closes the haori. The whites are more formal.
* Obi (帯): A sort of wide belt and very long, made of fabric. The obi men are about 8 cm in width, while those of women are at least 12 cm to 30 cm wide, the average being 15 cm. Like kimonos, obis are chosen for the formality (or not) of an event.
Read also Kimono
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